The old-fashioned chowder has been updated into a hearty, one-bowl meal that fits today's demand for healthier dishes that don't sacrifice rich flavor. Melanie Polk, AICR's Director of Nutrition Education, says, "Today's chowders are much different from the conventional kind made with just a few basic ingredients. They make use of many different types of foods and capitalize on the health-protective features of vegetables, whole grains and other plant-based foods."
All at Sea with Chowder
According to the American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language, "chowder" derives from the Old French word "chaudière," a cauldron-like pot fishermen used to make seafood stews. Culinary encyclopedias note that chowder-like fish soups developed along coastal regions around the world. Bouillabaisse is perhaps the most familiar of Mediterranean chowders, but other coastal areas have their own specialties, from the sweet-and-sour fish soups of Southeast Asia to the conch chowders of the Bahamas.
In the early days of American colonial history, "chowder" generally meant a dense soup made with clams or a fish like cod, often thickened with crackers and sometimes containing potatoes. Depending on the locale, a chowder might be creamy, red, or clear. Boston chowder is traditionally made with milk or cream, although some purists believe authentic New England chowder is clear, made with clam broth, stock, or water. Manhattan chowder uses a tomato base.
The Chowder Moves with the Times
Polk says, "Some traditional chowder ingredients provided a lot of fat but poor nutrition." Salt pork and bacon, for example, were a staple ingredient used mainly for flavoring, especially in winter when herbs and vegetables were scarce. "Today's markets," notes Polk, "offer a great variety of fresh produce and more healthful flavorings."
Although the classic chowders are made with seafood, potatoes, or corn, Polk says, "A chowder can taste great made with poultry, and almost any type of vegetable, including squash and sweet potatoes, works well in this dish."
Instead of using potatoes, the traditional starchy vegetable used in chowders, any grain or legume can be substituted to provide texture and body. "Instead of potatoes, try rice, barley, beans, lentils, quinoa - or even baked tortilla corn chips," Polk adds.
America's first chowders were seasoned with salt, pepper and sometimes cloves. Today's wide array of herbs and seasonings makes it easy to select those that not only complement the main ingredients, but also provide health benefits. According to Polk, culinary herbs, like all plant-based foods, contain antioxidants and other compounds that help ward off health problems.
The Chowder Gets a Health Makeover
"Classic chowder recipes may not reflect AICR's advice on healthier proportions, but it's easy to adjust them so that they do," says Polk. "Favorite family recipes can be modified by following AICR's two-thirds/one-third rule of thumb." Polk recommends that chowder recipes follow the proportions laid out in AICR's brochure, The New American Plate (see Editor's Note). To lower the risk of cancer and other chronic diseases, the Institute recommends two-thirds (or more) vegetables, fruits, whole grains and legumes and one-third (or less) animal protein.
These proportions have been endorsed by a panel of leading scientists who examined 247 studies on the link between cancer and eating fruits and vegetables. They found that 78 percent showed vegetables and fruits to be cancer protective. This benefit is attributed to their rich supply of vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals, cancer-protective compounds found only in plant foods.
Secrets to Great-Tasting Chowders
"Any chowder, milk- or broth-based, will have a richer body and taste if you increase the volume and variety of vegetables. This is especially true with lentils and vegetables that are fairly starchy, like potatoes, corn and beans," Polk says.
New England chowder recipes usually call for whole milk and sometimes cream as well, which significantly raise calorie and fat levels. Instead of high-fat dairy products, Polk suggests using low-fat (2 percent) milk. To add body and richness that compensate for the reduced fat, she suggests several techniques that can be used either separately or in combination, according to individual tastes.
One technique is to replace half of the low-fat milk with an equal amount of evaporated skim milk. Another technique is to make a thin paste by mixing a small amount of cornstarch into some of the soup broth (after it has cooled to room temperature), stir the mixture into the chowder, and then briefly simmer the soup a minute or two, until the cornstarch thickens the milky broth. A third option, which will please those who like a lot of texture in a soup, is to purée cooked potato in a blender with a little of the soup broth until completely smooth, and then add it back to the chowder.
Because time greatly improves the flavor and texture of dishes like chowder, many experts recommend "aging" or "curing" them, rather than serving immediately. Polk suggests allowing a just-cooked chowder to rest up to one hour at room temperature, or refrigerating for up to three days. She also points out that preparing a quantity greater than needed for one meal and refrigerating what is left over results in future servings of chowder with improved taste.
New England Style Chowder
Ingredients
- 2 bacon slices, chopped (see Note)
- 1/2 cup finely-chopped onion
- 2 cups clam juice (if using clams) or fish bouillon (if using fish) (see Note)
- 4 cups 2% milk, or 2 cups 2% milk and 2 cups evaporated skim milk
- 1 cup peeled and diced potatoes
- 2 cups peeled and diced butternut squash
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 cup chopped fresh spinach leaves or frozen spinach (see Note)
- 1 cup corn kernels
- 5 6.5-oz. cans chopped clams, drained, or 1 lb. freshly shucked clams, chopped, (juices reserved), or 1 lb. fish fillet cut in 3/4-inch pieces (see Note)
- 1/2 tsp. thyme
- salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 2 Tbsp. soft butter or margarine (optional)
- paprika for garnish
Directions
- Cook bacon on low-to-medium heat in a heavy, deep pan such as a Dutch oven until all the fat has liquefied and bacon is crisp. (Be careful bacon doesn't burn.) With a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper toweling and set aside.
- Stir onion into bacon fat and cook about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft, translucent and pale gold.
- Add clam juice or fish bouillon, milk, potatoes, squash and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, uncovered, over high heat, then reduce heat to simmer. Partially cover with lid and simmer about 15 minutes or until vegetables are tender but not falling apart.
- If either the technique of puréeing potatoes or using cornstarch is used to add body to the soup, it should be done at this stage, after the vegetables are cooked. For puréeing technique: remove cooked potatoes from chowder with slotted spoon, purée in blender with small amount of soup liquid until completely smooth, and transfer back to chowder. To thicken with cornstarch: remove 1/2 cup soup liquid from pot and let cool to room temperature before mixing in 1 Tbsp. of cornstarch; mix until completely smooth, add to chowder, and simmer gently 1 to 2 minutes.
- Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Chowder may be made up to this point one day ahead and refrigerated, tightly covered, until ready for final stage of preparation. At that point, reheat chowder until hot before continuing with recipe.)
- Add spinach, corn, clams (or fish) and thyme. Simmer gently until seafood is just barely cooked through, being careful seafood does not overcook (clams need only a few minutes).
- Remove from heat and stir in soft butter or margarine (if using). Check seasoning and add salt and pepper, if necessary, to taste. When ready to serve, discard bay leaf and ladle hot chowder into individual bowls. Crumble reserved bacon and sprinkle over soup (optional). Lightly sprinkle with paprika. Serve with oyster or similar crackers.
Note: 1/2 to 1 tablespoon canola oil can be substituted for the bacon to sauté onion. Frozen spinach can be used in place of fresh after defrosting and squeezing out excess water. If using canned clams, use juices from the can for the 2 cups needed. If using freshly shucked clams, use any juices from shells plus enough bottled clam juice to make 2 cups. (Most bottled clam juice is sold in 8-oz. containers.)
Makes about 6 servings, each containing 281 calories and 9 grams of fat.
This Manhattan Chowder is rich in color, texture and flavor, belying its low fat content.
Manhattan-Style Chowder
Ingredients
- 2 Tbsp. canola oil
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 2 ribs celery, finely chopped
- 2-3 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 large bay leaf
- 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
- 2 14-16-oz. cans stewed tomatoes
- 1 4-oz. can diced green chili peppers, rinsed and drained (optional)
- 2 cups diced potatoes
- 2 cups diced carrots
- 1 cup frozen lima beans, defrosted
- 2 cups tomato juice
- 2 cups clam juice (if using clams) or fish bouillon (if using fish)
- 6 6.5-oz. cans chopped clams, drained, juices reserved, or 1 lb. freshly shucked clams, chopped, or 1 lb. fillet of fish cut into 1/2-3/4 inch pieces (see Note)
- 2 tsp. Old Bay Seasoning, or to taste (optional)
Directions
- Heat a large heavy skillet or Dutch oven over high heat. Add oil and reduce heat to medium. Add onion, celery, garlic, bay leaf and thyme. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is translucent and pale gold.
- Add tomatoes with their juices, green chiles (if used), potatoes, carrots, lima beans, tomato juice and clam juice. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce heat and simmer until vegetables are tender but potatoes are not falling apart.
- Add clams (or fish), clam juice (or fish bouillon) and Old Bay Seasoning (if used). Heat just below simmering point until clams are heated throughout, or fish is cooked through. Take care not to overcook seafood.
- Adjust seasoning to taste with salt, pepper and Old Bay Seasoning.
- When ready to serve, ladle hot chowder into bowls and serve.
Note: If using canned clams, use juices from the can for the 2 cups needed. If using freshly shucked clams, use juices from clam shells plus enough bottled clam juice to make 2 cups. (Most bottled clam juice is sold in 8-oz. containers.)
Makes 8 servings, each containing 354 calories and 6 grams of fat.
The following chowder uses chicken instead of fish and, in place of potatoes, a grain plus legumes that increase its nutritional and cancer-protective value. A vegetarian version can be made by eliminating the chicken and replacing the chicken broth with one made from vegetables.
Vegetable and Chicken Chowder with Barley
Ingredients
- 2 Tbsp. canola oil
- 1 cup onions, finely chopped
- 1 red bell pepper, diced
- 2 ribs celery, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tsp. dried thyme
- 1 tsp. dried cilantro
- 1 Tbsp. dried parsley
- 1 15.5-oz. can cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed and drained
- 1/2 cup yellow split peas, picked over and rinsed
- 1/2 cup lentils, picked over and rinsed
- 1/2 cup barley
- 8 cups chicken bouillon or canned low-fat chicken broth
- 1 large bay leaf
- 1-2 tsp. salt (if desired), to taste
- 1 tsp. freshly ground pepper, or to taste
- 1 cup diced cooked chicken
Directions
- Heat a large heavy skillet or Dutch oven over high heat. Add oil and reduce heat to medium. Add onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, thyme, cilantro and parsley. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is translucent and pale gold.
- Add beans, split peas, lentils, barley, broth, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until vegetables, legumes and barley are tender, stirring occasionally. (If liquid evaporates too quickly and mixture becomes dry, add additional broth or water in incremental amounts, about 1/2 cup at a time, until chowder resembles a thick soup.) Add chicken and heat through. Check seasoning and add salt and pepper if necessary, to taste.
Note: This chowder can easily be modified to a vegetarian chowder by substituting vegetable for chicken broth and eliminating the chicken.
Makes 6 servings, each containing 338 calories and 5 grams of fat.
Source: AICR
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